ON THE ROAD:

The Okavango Delta - Botswana

In August 2023, after 17 hours of flying via Johannesburg, we finally arrive in Botswana. From Maun Airport, the adventure continues aboard a private propeller plane bound for the Okavango Delta. We land in the heart of the wilderness. Before each landing, the airstrip must be cleared by radio – wild animals often wander across it. This is true wilderness. And Wilderness is, fittingly, the name of the travel company that organises these exclusive journeys.

The company’s mission is to ensure that Mother Earth’s iconic wild places endure – unfenced, untamed and intact. They are to be protected, explored and, ideally, even expanded. As a leading conservation and travel organisation, Wilderness is dedicated to immersing guests in extraordinary environments such as the Okavango Delta, creating intimate encounters between people, nature and culture.

Forty years ago in Botswana, two passionate guides fell in love with the African wilderness. Their ambition was to give guests the chance to truly immerse themselves in Africa’s wild places and to make a meaningful impact. What began in Botswana expanded to Namibia and South Africa, followed by Zimbabwe, Zambia, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. Today, Wilderness is proud to be a global collective with more than 60 camps and lodges and 3,000 employees across eight African countries, helping to safeguard symbolic wilderness landscapes totalling 2.3 million hectares. Its focus remains on conservation, community development and sustainable operations.

After a 30-minute drive through a strikingly dry landscape in a specially adapted Land Cruiser, we reach Jao Camp. From April to November, the region experiences the dry season, followed by a shorter rainy season from December to April. Today, the thermometer reads 32 degrees. We quickly realise that we have entered another world, far removed from any form of civilisation. This is historic ground: Stone Age discoveries indicate human settlement here more than 100,000 years ago. The Okavango Delta is believed to be one of the earliest sites of human habitation in southern Africa – and it marks the beginning of our great adventure.

JAO CAMP

WHERE WATER AND LAND BLUR

At the heart of the Okavango, on a remote island, lies Jao Camp. Here, land meets river and wetlands. Surrounded by riverine forests and expansive floodplains, Jao is the archetypal Okavango Delta camp – a lush paradise for wildlife.

In Jao, the seemingly endless, ever-changing waters bring constant surprises. We have come here to explore this Botswanan paradise.

Jao Camp is discreetly nestled among the trees on an elevated platform. It is a sculptural marvel crafted from natural and recycled materials – steel, wood and glass – with soaring, spacious interiors that embrace the light and the surrounding bush. The camp offers accommodation in nine generously sized, beautifully appointed tents. Each tent features indoor and outdoor showers, as well as a private pavilion with captivating views of the surrounding landscape. Vast, luxurious and stylish, the tents are havens of comfort.

The main area houses a lounge, fitness room and pool. A museum and library accommodate the wine cellar, complete with an impressive decorative centrepiece: an original giraffe skeleton. There are also five expansive safari suites and two villas with private plunge pools, as well as personal butlers, chefs, guides and vehicles.

The day here begins at five in the morning. The early hours are surprisingly cool, with dramatic temperature differences between day and night. After a breakfast prepared especially for us, we set off on our first outing with our private guide, Gift. We witness a breathtaking sunrise – a light almost impossible to describe, as though we had landed on another planet. During a soil reading, our guide explains the tracks of the local wildlife, impressing us with his deep knowledge.

At midday, we return to camp for lunch and a siesta. The culinary experience at Jao is itself a highlight. To reduce their food footprint, strengthen ties with the local community and foster a healthier, more harmonious environment, the kitchen uses locally grown ingredients in traditional recipes.

In the afternoon, another exploration awaits: a jeep-based game drive, followed by a canoe excursion – here called a mokoro – gliding just a few centimetres above the water. We are mesmerised by the sight of hippos, crocodiles and elephants.

Later, we enjoy sundowners as the day slowly draws to a close, before returning to camp for dinner around the campfire. This is safari luxury at its finest.

Jao is a place deeply devoted to protecting the waters, the land, and the plants, birds and wildlife that call Botswana home. A true jewel in the heart of the Okavango Delta.

MOMBO

A PLACE FOR DREAMING

The second destination on our safari takes us by propeller plane to Mombo Camp, where the main Okavango River divides into its principal channels. At the airstrip, our guide “Doc” greets us. Upon arrival at the camp, we receive a warm welcome from the team as everyone introduces themselves. The interiors follow a classic colonial style. The vast accommodation offers everything one would expect from a five-star hotel in a major city, while still honouring the traditions of an authentic, old-world safari camp.

Nestled in a thicket of towering mangosteen and fig trees lie spacious wooden-and-canvas suites with enchanting views across the floodplains of the Okavango Delta. And once again, we head straight back into nature – into this extraordinary world of wildlife, home to lions, giraffes, elephants and countless bird species.

Guide “Doc” reads tracks, and after following one trail, we actually find a fully grown lion. It is an indescribable feeling to watch these majestic animals in the wild. Elephants stroll past us in silence. We are shown a rare Pel’s fishing owl and a wattled crane, a species threatened with extinction.

With more than 45,000 hectares of virtually untouched wilderness to explore, Wilderness Mombo offers surprises every day. The area surrounding this safari camp is incredibly rich in wildlife and is regarded as one of Africa’s finest destinations for animal encounters. Throughout the year, visitors can witness spectacular sightings and even observe predator–prey interactions, often involving big cats. It is nothing short of spectacular.

Culinarily, we are indulged at the highest level here as well. In this authentically African camp, dishes are prepared primarily with local ingredients and regional produce. A key highlight is the baobab tree, whose natural “superfood” powder is exceptionally healthy. For breakfast, delicious jaffles (toasted sandwiches) are cooked over an open fire. And to our surprise, we even discover a traditional pizza oven – right in the middle of the African bush.

We feel the heartbeat of Africa during a traditional Boma evening, complete with singing and dancing. And we learn that the long-standing vision of Mombo is to empower the local community and to serve as a shining example of sustainable safari tourism throughout Botswana – and beyond.

DUMA TAU

The kingdom of elephants

We reach the final destination of our adventure: DumaTau Camp. It sits directly on the Linyanti River, which entire elephant families peacefully cross time and again. DumaTau is, in fact, the region with the highest elephant density in Africa and offers extraordinary encounters with herds of these magnificent, majestic animals. Despite its name meaning “roar of the lion” in Setswana, it is the elephants – though lions and other predators such as wild dogs also thrive here – who truly steal the show.

We watch great herds moving through ancient wildlife corridors, playfully splashing one another in the waters of the Linyanti and feeding on water lilies. Nestled between two active elephant corridors and boasting 45 kilometres of river frontage, DumaTau is a perfect safari destination.

Our spacious tented suite (complete with its own plunge pool) is set on raised wooden walkways, just steps from where wild animals wander peacefully and with extraordinary serenity through the camp. The interiors, featuring handcrafted mosaic tiles, acacia wood and local textiles, reflect the spirit of the Linyanti River – one of Botswana’s most precious natural sanctuaries.

After an early wake-up call, we head back out into the wilderness. Every day brings something new; one never knows what the next hour will reveal. And those wishing to be truly close to nature can even sleep under the stars. Specially constructed platforms in the trees make this possible, with our guide Kitso keeping watch throughout the night.

A particularly memorable surprise awaits us: a small bar set up especially for us in the middle of the wilderness, where we are warmly welcomed and enjoy our gin and tonic sundowners. At DumaTau, everyone knows us by name – after just a single day, we feel utterly at home. Another highlight: the chef prepares our lunch on a boat while elephants cross the Linyanti right beside us. An incomparable experience.

The following day includes a walking safari. We leave the jeep, accompanied by our guide Kitso. He carries a rifle only for the most extreme emergency (which, of course, never arises). We follow him slowly and cautiously into the open wilderness. Tracks are identified, new scents discovered, and unfamiliar sounds fill the air – we feel closer to nature than ever before.

And then our unique journey comes to an end. A week filled with unforgettable moments and impressions. We were able to experience animals in the wild, and in doing so, one thing became clear: we will never visit a zoo again. It is hard to put into words, but Africa undeniably awakens something within you – a completely new sense of life and freedom.